Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Monkey Temple

10th October 2011
Today most of the group went to Bhaktapur, I took this trip in 2007 so my plans were to go off exploring on my own. One of the main sites which I have not seen in Kathmandu is Swayamburnath, also known as The Monkey Temple.
Just outside the gates to the hotel usually stands a row of small taxis. My plan was to visit one of the small shops near by to buy a bottle of water and then return to the taxis.
Whilst passing the row of taxis one of the drivers asks me where I'm going. His taxi is in the middle of the row, no honour amongst drivers here. I negotiated the price down from 400 rupees to 300 and say I'll be back after buying the water. Not wanting to miss out on the fare, he says I can buy water on the way and promises to stop at a shop.
I get in the taxi but at the junction with the main road we were stopped by a policeman. The driver had a quick word with him and then tells me we will be delayed for five minutes, it's the president of Nepal! Shortly afterwards a truck filled with solders, two black 4x4s, a load of motorcycle outriders, a stretched limo, more motorcycles and 4x4s drive passed. Once they had passed we headed off through the crowed small streets of Kathmandu. True to his word, we made a short stop for me to buy the water.
On the way the driver tried to negotiate a price for the return journey saying he would wait for me and that I would only need an hour to see the sight. When I said I was going to be longer than an hour and that I did not want him to wait, he said both ways would only be 600 rupees. He was willing to sit still for an hour for a guaranteed fare. I told him not to wait but did give him 50 rupees more than the negotiated price for the single journey.
Swayamburnath is a stupa on top of a hill on the west side of Kathmandu. It's quite a climb up to the top of the steps and you need to watch your camera and bags as the resident monkeys are known to steel them.
Having had a good look around, walked clockwise around the stupa with the pilgrims and spun all the prayer wheels I could find, I headed back down the hill to see if I could find a taxi to take me back to the hotel.
The first driver in the queue quoted me 700 rupees. I told him I had gotten here for 300 and whilst he tells me it's impossible to do it for that, another driver listening to the conversation, says he will take me to the hotel for the 300 rupees. Once again no honour between taxi drivers in Kathmandu and off I go to the car of the second driver.
In the afternoon I ventured into the Thamel area of Kathmandu. This is a maze of small streets filled with small shops. You can buy all sorts of souvenirs here and trekking equipment. Apart from the larger shops, on the entrance to the area, most are selling fake brands when it comes to trekking clothes. I remember parts of the area from my previous trip to Kathhmandu and keep returning to this part and radiating out from there down other streets. I think it would be easy to get lost on the maze.
In the evening I met up with some of the group for our last evening meal together. Tomorrow morning we start the long journey home.

Phil

Leaving #Bhutan

9th October 2011
We were up at 4:00 this morning, had a quick breakfast then headed off to the airport for the 7:00am flight.
Even though you are heading home, It is always sad to leave a country and the guides you have got to know. However on the drive to the airport Singey , putting it into Buddhist philosophy terms said, everything is impermanent all things end. It was good to think of it in that way, so we said our goodbyes to the guides and drivers and headed into the airport. Once in the departure lounge things were not so impermanent, we had a three hour delay.
I don't want to mention what nationality she was, but sitting behind me on the plane was a very loud lady who gave two great quotes during the flight. She must have been on a whistle stop tour of the region, her first quote was "I have only been in Bhutan for three days but I saw it all". At the same time she mentioned that she did not climb up to the Tiger's Nest, but she was driven down the valley to take a look at it. Next quote followed the pilots announcement that for those sitting on the right of the plane we were passing Mount Everest, "Once you have seen one mountain you have seen them all". And the say travel broadens the mind!
After the short flight we were back in Kathmandu. The entire population of the country of Bhutan is 750,000, Kathmandu city population is 3,000,000. Having being in the quiet of Bhutan, Kathmandu is an assault on all the sensors.
After checking into our hotel we went on a city tour, all of these places I had visited in 2007, but it was nice to see some of them again. First we went to Durbar Square and the Kumari Gahr, home of the living goddess, Kumari Devi. Next on the list was the 40m high stupa of Bodnath. The stupa has the all seeing eyes of the Buddha looking out in each direction. In Kathmandu terms, Bodnath is quiet place, although there are shops and lots of people the lack of traffic helps to make it a calmer place.
After the stupa we went to the Temple of Pashupatinath. You don't really see much of the temple since it is on the other side of the river and tourists are not allowed on that side. What you do see can be quite disturbing, this area is also one of the city's most important cremation area. The cremations are carried out in the open on the ghats, these are steps leading down to the river.
There were a number of cremations taking place at the time of our visit. Just passed the bridge over the river there where also a number of wrapped bodies awaiting cremation, the feet of the bodies are washed in the river. I can't remember seeing this part of the ceremony last time I was here. It's a little bit like watching a train crash, you want to look away but at the same time you are curious of what is going to happen.
Tomorrow most of the group are going to take a trip to Bhaktapur. I have been there before so I'm going to head off on my own to Swayamburnath, also known as the Monkey Temple. I missed this site last time around.

Phil

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Tiger's Nest #Bhutan

8th October 2011
Today we left Thimphu and headed back to the Paro area where we hiked up to Taktsang Monastery. It is located at around 3000 metres above sea level and is on a cliff face 900m above the valley. We only had to climb about 700m but with another hot day, going up to 3000m altitude and the fact that I now have a sticking cold, it was hard work. The name means Tiger's Nest and it was well worth the effort. After the hike we visited the Kyuchu Lhakhang temple built in 659AD.
That is it I'm afraid, tomorrow we fly out of Bhutan and head to Kathmandu, Nepal for two days. The flight is at 7:00 in the morning so the alarm is set for 4:00am.
We will have our evening meal tonight with the two guides and two drivers (one for the mini bus and one for the truck with our luggage). It will be sad to say goodbye, such nice people.

Phil

Friday, October 7, 2011

Thimphu day two

7th October 2011
This morning we attended the second day of the Tshechu Festival in Thimphu. We went early in the morning and I think all of Thimphu did the same to avoid the heat of midday. What I think is really nice about the festival, is that tourists make up a fraction of one percent of the crowed. You know you are watching an authentic event for the Bhutanese people and not an event tailored for tourists.


Before heading back to the city centre for lunch we went inside the Tshechu Dzong. The festival use to he held in the courtyard of the Dzong, but it is too small for the number of people who attend so the area just outside the Dzong was built for the festival. Once again I find it impossible to describe the inside of the temple, it was spectacular. You are not allowed to take photos in any temples in Bhutan, so since I can't give temples the justice in words they deserve, you will have to come and see them for yourself.
After lunch we went up to an enclosure above the city to see deer and the national animal Takin. At one time these animals had been part of a zoo, but the king ordered the zoo to close since it did not follow the Bhutanese way of life. However when the animals were released in to the wild they kept returning to the city. For their safety the enclosure was built to house them.
After visiting the enclosure we went to a local farmers market, lots of chillies and spices on sale as well as a big variety of fruit and vegetables.
After the market I had a browse amongst the Bhutanese craft stalls.
By the way I passed the 500th photo milestone today!
Tomorrow we walk up to the Tigers nest monastery, I just hope I'm up to it since I'm coming down with a cold.

Phil

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Thimphu

6th October 2011
Today day we left Punakha heading to the Bhutanese capital, Thimphu.
Our visit to the capital coincides with the annual three day festival.
Before reaching Thimphu we had to cross the Dochu La pass once more. This time our luck held with the weather and we had views to the snowy mountains, all of them over 7500m in hight. That part of the Himalayas forms the border with Tibet.
On arrival at the outskirts of Thimphu, we once again saw the 202 ft high golden Buddha which is currently under construction on a mountain side over looking the city. The Buddha is 140 feet tall with a 62 foot base. In the city itself, we visited the textile museum and the King Jigme Dorij Wangchuk memorial chorten, he was the third king of Bhutan, the current king is the fifth. After lunch we went to the Tashicho Dzong to watch some of the annual festival. Like all the other Dzongs, Bhutanese people are required to wear their national costume to enter and all foreign visitors are required to dress smart. With this being an important festival I think the locals had put on what we would call their Sunday best. Inside the festival the main dance we saw, was the dance of the 16 drum beaters. I don't know how the sixteen dancers kept it up? It was another very hot day today, no shade for the dancers, they wore colourful dress with a mask and the dance lasted for two hours.
On leaving the festival I had a little walk down the main street of Thimphu. Compared to what we have seen, but not unexpectedly, the city is a lot busier. In Paro buildings were restricted to a maximum of three levels, here that does not seem to be the case. That said none appear to be over five levels and all are still in the Bhutanese style.
Later we checked into our hotel, about half an hour drive from the city. This hotel is the Wangchuk Resort and once again I'm very impressed with the standard of hotel. I think Singey, our guide, must telephone ahead because every time we arrive at an hotel there is group of ladies waiting to take our bags to our rooms and tea and coffee is also waiting for us.


Phil

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Punakha

5th Oct 2011
Today started with a short hike to the Chimmi Lhakang Monastery. The first part of the hike followed a path which meandered through the rice fields. At the Monastery there was a number of young novice monks playing outside. One of their footballs had got stuck up a tree, so a few of our group got a very long pole and managed to knock the ball out the tree. This resulted in a football kick about with the monks before going into the small temple. On the walk back from the Monastery I checked the temperature and although it was not even 10:00 am it was 31c.
After the hike we visited the Punakha Dzong, this was once the capital building before the capital was moved to Thimpu. The Dzong is an impressive building at the best of times but is currently getting decorated for the coming royal wedding of the king and future queen. Bhutanese people are very loyal to their king and there is much excitement about the wedding which takes place on the 13th October. We have all been givens badge with a picture of the royal couple. In the courtyard of the Dzong there where some ladies practicing a dance they will perform at the wedding. There is no way I could describe the inside of the temple at the Dzong, it is the most beautiful temple I have ever seen and will be the location of the wedding ceremony.
After lunch we took another hike, this time up to Khamsym Yuley Chorten. This too was an indescribable place. The Chorten has three levels inside and you can climb out onto it's roof for the surrounding views.
At the Chorten I took a photo of our young assistant guide,
Sangay Hbk Thinley, with my phone.



Phil

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Hike and Festival

4th Oct 2011
Up early this morning ready for breakfast and a hike. Feeling a lot better.
We had a short hike this morning up to the Gangtey Monastery. The hike was made all the more interesting at the start when we had to cross some bogy ground, some of the groups footwear was not up to the task in hand.
This area of Bhutan is a reserve for the Black-necked cranes, they fly over the Himalayas from Tibet to winter here. They will not start arriving until the end of October.
Once out of the bog the path went through a wooded area and running just above our path was another with children on their way to school on it. Once they saw us they kept shouting down to us "hello" and "good bye". Once the paths got closer together they came to see us to ask where we were going. They also had their photos taken with us. In Bhutan lots of children ask you to take their photo, Unlike children in other countries they are not after money, all they want is to be able to see the photo on the camera afterwards. After that they say "thank you sir" and off they go.
Once out of the woods a short up hill section brought us to the
Monastery.
After a short visit to the monastery we headed off to Wangdi for lunch along the bump road again. This was a three hour drive and we made only one stop for the toilet since we were in a hurry to get to the Wangdi Dzong for the festival. The festival was attended by lots of local people all in National Dress. I watched some of the festival dancing/play not really understanding what was going on, but judging by the laughter of the locals it was very funny.
After a while I came down from one of the viewing galleries to mingle with the local crowd, lots of children asked to have their photos taken and posed very nicely. I also videoed some of the children with the screen turned around so that they could see themselves. On leaving the Dzong four young girls asked me to take their photo. They also gave me their school address and asked if I could send them the photos. I don't think they understand that you can print more than one photo from each picture. They asked me to take four photos one for each of them.
After the festival we headed off to our next hotel, Meri Punsum Resort, near Punakha. We will be here for two nights. Again the standard of the hotel is very high. As I write this blogg I do think we may be plagued with one of the things you hear about Bhutanese dogs, they sleep all day and bark all night!

Phil

Paro to Phobjika

3rd Oct 2011
The itinerary that I posted a link to is a standard itinerary, since we are in Bhutan during the Thimpu festival, our itinerary is getting changed around so that we can visit the festival. So with that in mind today we drove from Paro to Phobjika, which is the farthest east we will go on the trip. In total the journey was 10 hrs including lunch and site seeing. A major part of the drive from Wangdi to Phobjika was on narrow winding and bumpy roads. This included a very long drop on one side of the road down to the valley floor. On route we crossed the Douch La pass, 3140m above sea level. Here there are 108 Chortens and supposedly, breathtaking views across to the Bhutaness Himalayas. Unfortunately for us it was cloudy, may be we will be lucky on the way back.
Also unfortunately the bumpy drive ground me down and by the time we reach Phobjika I felt unwell. The was an opportunity to visit a farm house and drink butter tea, something I have wanted to try for a while. I went in side the farm house but since I was unsure of what was up with me I declined the butter tea. We then went to our hotel, Dewachen Hotel, which was fabulous, but in my state I was unable to appreciate it. I think it was just the fact that I had not slept well for the last three nights and the bumpy road. I went straight to bed and all though I did not sleep all the way through, I did not get up again until the morning.

Phil

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Bhutan at last

2 Oct 2011
Breakfast at 5:00am and then the 20 mins drive to the airport, I don't know if it's because we have a dog at home now, but I can't remember so many street dogs in Kathmandu last time. They are everywhere but seem very street wise to the traffic.
Having filled in paper work yesterday to get in Nepal we have to complete the forms to leave.
The flight from Kathmandu to Paro, Bhutan was just 45 mins and we had fantastic views of Everest, although I have seen it before it was still exciting to see it again. Once more we had a long wait queuing to get our Bhutanese VISAs put in our passports, the immigration officials all wear Bhutanese traditional dress which is compulsory for those working in official positions.
During the transfer from the airport to the hotel we were again welcomed with a scarf and also made a short stop to watch an archery match. In Bhutan archery is the national sport and they shoot over a distance of 140 metres.
In the afternoon we were taken to the centre of Paro for lunch, very tasty food and after we went to visit the Paro Dzong where some of the novice monks were performing a dance. A Dzong is both a place for local government and a monastery.

Phil

Dehli - Kathmandu

1 Oct 2011
Flew over night from London Heathrow to Delhi, don't think I slept much on the flight but must have had a little sleep since the flight did not seem to drag. Having said that arrived in Delhi very tied, having lost 4 1/2 hrs with the time difference. I can't remember which terminal I flew into at Delhi in 2007, but the one today, terminal 3, is worlds apart from that one. Terminal 3 is very clean and very modern. Flew from Delhi to Kathmandu in the afternoon and then spent a long time in line waiting to get a VISA.
Having cleared all the formalities on entering Nepal I found my bag and head out into the madness that is Kathmandu. At least Explore Tour leaders are easy to spot with their red lettering on a white background. While waiting for the remaining member of the group it started to rain, I can't remember any rain at all the last time I was here. It turns out to be only a short shower and once on the bus we are all welcomed to Nepal with a scarf.
At the group meeting we are given information for the flight tomorrow, it's an early start in the morning, will have to get up at 4:30, breakfast at 5:00 so we can get to the airport for 6:00.
The group is quite large with 14 members, one of the biggest I have been with.
With such an early start in the morning I had an evening meal at the hotel and went to bed early

Phil